For such a small place, Amelia Island is surprisingly diverse. Most of the northern part of the island is occupied by Fernandina Beach, a Victorian-era town that time has seemingly ignored. Much of Fernandina’s rich heritage, including its magnificent buildings, have been lovingly preserved.
When early 20th century industrialist Henry Flagler built his railroad along Florida’s eastern coast, he deliberately bypassed the town of Fernandina Beach. At the time, the move was viewed as a negative. The island didn’t see the benefits of mass modernization like other parts of Florida and the well-to-do tourists headed straight to Palm Beach and the Keys. But in the long-run, Flagler’s bypass of the island turned out to be a good thing. That decision left Fernandina Beach stuck in what’s been called a Victorian time capsule for future generations to enjoy. Today, many of the structures in downtown Fernandina Beach have been restored and opened to the public as shops, restaurants and quaint inns.
While a lot of time can be spent exploring the town of Fernandina Beach (see Part One), the rest of Amelia Island shouldn’t be ignored by weekend visitors. From its beaches to its parks, Amelia Island provides plenty of recreational and sightseeing activities.
From Centre Street (which becomes Atlantic Avenue), take North 14th Street and head to Old Town. This part of the community was settled by the Timucuan Indians who chose it for its high and dry location along the Amelia River and its fertile soil. The Spanish later claimed the area and laid out its grid pattern of streets which still exist today. At the corner of Estrada and White Streets stands a regal old white house that might be familiar to movie goers. The Victorian mansion was used for the exterior shots in the 1988 children’s film The Adventures of Pippi Longstocking. The house is a private residence and not open for tours. But it’s become a drive-by attraction for some visitors who want to snap a picture of the famous house.
Just to the east of Old Town is Fort Clinch State Park. The 1100-acre property takes its name from the 19th century brick fortress that stands on the northernmost tip of the island. For a nominal fee, visitors can tour the fort and see the barracks that were once occupied by Union soldiers during the Civil War. On the first weekend of each month, costumed performers hold living history re-enactments at the fort.
But the real star of Fort Clinch State Park is its natural beauty. A minute’s drive off the park’s main road is the most pristine beach in all of Florida. A series of boardwalks lead visitors across large dunes and to the expansive white sandy beach. While the beach is never empty, it also never seems crowded except on major holidays and during special events. It almost leaves the visitor with the feeling that this stretch of beach is their own private retreat. It’s that serene.
Extending out into the turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean is a half-mile-long pier that can accommodate dozens of fishermen. Waves gently crash beneath the wooden structure, which is also a good place to look for shells. Nearby is a campground, picnic areas and plenty of hiking and biking trails.
The drive along the beach down A1A is mostly residential with typical Florida coastal homes. But in between the houses you can often find free off-beach parking. Even if you’re just passing through, the beaches are a must-see. The homes are set a healthy distance away from the ocean and are protected by large dunes. Most of the houses have long boardwalks leading to the beach. On a foggy or overcast day, the coast resembles something you might see in parts of New England.
Two large resorts occupy the southern end of Amelia Island. The Ritz-Carlton features more than 400 guest rooms, 42 suites and two presidential suites. An 18-hole PGA Championship golf course and a well-appointed spa is also on the massive property.
Further down the road is Amelia Island Plantation, a resort that covers more than 1300 acres. Like the Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island Plantation features spas, tennis courts and world-class golf. There’s also a small village of shops and restaurants nestled amongst the centuries-old Live Oaks and Spanish moss.
As a frequent visitor to both Amelia Island and Key West, I often tell people to spend a weekend in Amelia Island if their schedule doesn’t allow for the nearly nine hour drive to the southernmost key. Amelia Island features many of the same qualities as Key West – beautiful historic homes, natural beauty and great shops and restaurants. But over the years, Amelia Island has managed to retain its small town charm and sense of community. Except on special occasions, you won’t find big crowds here. The pace is a lot slower. It’s the kind of town where shop owners like to chat with tourists and you’re likely to make a couple of friends before you leave. It’s just like time passed Amelia Island by. Maybe Henry Flager knew what he was doing all along.
Is there any place else to stay besides the Omni that has 2 bedroom suites with kitchen?